This is an in depth layout of how I have drilled/tapped Toyota steering boxes for Hydro assist as well as a simple mod to allow your pump to keep up. This is intended to give a bit more info on the time, tools, and ability needed to do this mod. It takes about 2 hrs. from start to finish . So if you have the ability, a bit of patience, and don't have the cash to have someone elso do it, try it yourself.
Tools
Deadblow hammer
Ball Peen hammer
3/4" socket for 1/2" drive ratchet
32mm socket for 1/2" drive ratchet
Pitman arm puller
Crescent wrench
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" drive ratchet
14mm socket for a 3/8" ratchet
Center punch
7/16" drill bit
2 smaller bits to step up in size
1/4" NPT tap
14 guage wire (about 8" long)
Brake cleaner
1/2" drive drill

Alright, first step is to pull the 32mm pitman arm nut.

Now to pull the arm, I have found that if you use the tool in the predetermined method of just tightening on the puller, chances are you will break it, The best way I have found to pull the arm is to first tighten the puller down onto the arm. Get it tight enough that you have to put some muscle in it, but not that you are jumping on the breaker bar to turn it.
Next, grab your ball peen and smack the end of the puller itself. Retighten the puller. I usually get about 1/16th of a turn between blows with the hammer. Smack it again. Keep this up until the arm pops loose. It can take a little while but keep at it.

Next, turn the input shaft to about the center location.

Pull the 4 sector shaft bolts on the top cap

Use the dead blow and tap the sector shaft up through the top of the box. A bit of fluid will come out so be ready with some absorbant

Turn the input shaft to the left until it stops. Now remove the 4 input shaft housing bolts

If your box has the centering valve, use the 10mm allen wrench to remove it. There is a valve, spring, and almost a cylinder that need to be removed. If you don't have one, skip this

Now pull the input shaft housing, you might have to wiggle it a bit as the o-ring inside will stick some

Now you can locate where you want your holes. The first can be moved around some. I have seen some people who have mounted it on the word TOYODA.

Only problem is if you ever want to move your box forward to accomodate moving the axle forward, the line coming off the box will interfere with the front body mount. I prefer the second location. Roughly 2.5" down from the top surface and 1.25" over from the casting seam. It is out of the way and allows for you to move the axle in the future without redrilling your box.

With this hole, if you look inside you are drilling into a large open orifice so this one is the quick and easy hole. Also note that a rag should be stuffed in to cover the bearings for the sector shaft so as not to get any chips down that direction.

Always center punch before drilling as walking the bit can really mess ya up on the next hole. I started with a small bit to pilot the hole, then stepped up to a middle sized bit to make the final 7/16 hole easier and more controlled. '
When tapping this hole, take your time and check the depth. dont tap too deep and make shore that the fitting doesnt prutude past the housing, you don't want the fitting to hit on the sharft

Now for the top hole, you are trying to catch the vein that runs front to back.

You can see on the top of the box, the vein is actually raised above the rest of the casting.

Same method, punch, pilot, step, 7/16, tap. You can see that I was a little off to the left but the bit is large enough that I still caught the vein just fine. With this hole, you need the 7/16 bit to touch the bottom of this vein in order to get enough engagement on the fitting. BE SURE NOT TO PUNCH THROUGH THE BOTTOM AS THIS WILL RUIN YOUR BOX.

Make sure you clean the box THOROUGHLY. I have found that using compressed air works but can make it difficult if used too soon. If you blast air into the top vein right off the bat, it will compact the chips together and take a long time to get them all out. I have found that if you use a piece of 14 guage wire, strip back about 1/2-3/4" and fray the wires a bit, it'll work much better. If you insert the frayed wire and twist, you can grab some chips and pull them out. Do this until the wire stops @ the other end of the vein. Then blast some brake cleaner down the vein to clean the cutting oil and small particles. Then just clean the chips from the main body of the box, pull the rag on the bearings and clean some more. A flashlight will help you find ALL the chips. Once it is %100 free of chips, you can start reassembly.
When you reassemble your pump its wire to buy a complete seal kit,Don Kyat sell them for around $100

One thing to watch when reassembling is the teflon ring on the piston

It can get cut on this sharp edge when sliding back in and cause some serious problems down the line.

thanks haden good idea to make sure we keap the info

Yep I thought it was about time we started collecting all the info from the web
when I get more time I will put a shit load more up

Nice tech